Inseam sewing-machine



A. R. MORRILL.

INSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED mmza, 191a.

Patented Sept. 13, 1921 4 SHEETS-SHEET A. R. MO RRILLi INSEAM SEWING MACH! APPLICATION FILED mmza;

1,390,808, Patente t. 13, 1921 I SHEET 3' HEETS A. R. MORHILL.

INSEAM SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATIQN FILED MAR.23,1918.

Patented Sept. 13, 1921.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4-.

a to the sole of a turn shoe, or to sew the welt rt F-FlCE.

a MOBRILL, or swmrsco'rr, massaonpsn'rrs, nssrsuonro UNITED SHOE MACHINERY conronarxou, or newsman.

tain new and useful Improvements in Inseam Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the followin to be a full, clear, and exact description of the, invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The invention relates to inseam sewing machines such as are used to sew the upper and u er to the insole of a welt shoe.

The primary object of the invention is to so arrange and operate the stitch forming devices that the swinging movement given to the shoe in sewing about the toe may be more gradual and more nearly uniform than with the constructions heretofore in use. To this end the needle is oscillated in a path which is inclined to the line of feed, so that the travel of the channel guide away from the needle after the needle has entered the work is at an obtuse instead of at a right angle to the needle :path, and consequently less swing of the shoe is required between successive stitches when sewing about the toe to give theproper clearance for the channelguide. This enables the operator to more easily and accurately guide the shoe, and also .results in a better distribution of the stitches and a tighter seam, particularly in sewing about pointed toes. This feature maybe embodied with advantage in machines in 1 which the shoe is automatically presented to the stitch forming mechanism, as well as in machines in which the shoe is presented to the stitch forming mechanism by the operator, since it adapts such machine for sewing more pointed toes than would be practicable with the usual construction and arrangement of needle and channel guide. a a

The invention may be embodied in existing machines by inclining the axle of the needle segmentto the line of feed, or by changing the line of movementof the channel. guide and awl or other feeding devices. The invention will be better understood from an inspection of the it accompanying du-awingsandthe following detailed description of the mechanism illustrated therein.

iIn the drawinga fiigure 1 is a right hand Specifiationot Letters fatent.

PATERSQN, NEW JERSEY, A CORTORATION OF INSEAIM SEWING-MACHINE.

Patented sept. 13, 1921.

Application filed March 23, 191B. serialkllo. 224,328.

side elevation showingso much of a welt and ,turn sewingmachine as is necessary to illustrate the application of the present improvementthereto; Fig.2 is a partial front elevation, certain parts beingomitted to better show the parts behind them; Fig. 3 is a a detail side elevation illustrating the .support for the needle segment and back gage; and Figs. 4 to 11 are diagrammatic views illustrating the mode of operation.

In the drawings the invention is shown embodied in a welt and turn sewing machine in which the stitch forming devices are similar in general construction to the stitch forming devices of the machine shown and described in Patent No. 1,108,560, August 25, 1914, and in which the needle, back gage, channel guide and awl are so mounted and actuate-d that the advance or feed of the work is continuous during the sewing, as fully shown and described in Patent No. 1,289,314, dated December 31, 1918. In embodying the invention in this continuous feed machine it is preferred to re-arrange the needle segment so that it will oscillate about an axis 'which is inclined to the line alongwhich the work engaging devices are reciprocated in feeding the work, thus iving the needle a path of movement w ich is inclined to the line of feed, the construction and mode of operation of the machine otherwise remaining the same.

The machine shown is provided with a curved hook needle 2, a looper 4, a thread arm 6, an awl 8, a channel guide 10, a back gage 12 which, as shown, also actsas a welt guide,,a backrest 14, a takeup 16 and an auxiliary takeup 18, all of which are similar in construction to the corresponding parts in the machine of the patent referred to. The channel guide and awl are mounted on a feed slide 20, which hasthe same construction as the feed slide of the patent, and is reciprocated by a cam lever 22 and feed cam 24. Thechannel guide is secured upon a lever 26 which is pivoted on the feed slide, and isrocked at proper intervals by a .cam lever 28. and rock shaft 30, as in the machine ofthe patent. The awl is secured in an awl segment32 pivotally mounted on the feed slide, and connectedby a link 34 with a lever 36 also mounted on the feed slide, and rocked at proper intervals by a cam 38 as in the machine of the patent.

The needle and back gage (welt guide ion are also mounted for reciprocation in the line of feed, and are advanced in the direction of the feed during the back feed of the feed slide, and are returned or back :Eed during the advance of the feed slide. As shown,

- the needle is secured in a needle segment 40'which is pivotally mounted and guided on a supportlng plate 42 to swing about an axis which is inclined to the line of movement of the feed slide and to the line of movement of the support 422. A link 44 connects the needle segment with an actuating lever 46, the connections at the ends of the linkbeing in the form of ball joints to permit the movement'of the needle and needle segment in the line of feed, and also to permit the needle to swing in a plane which is at an angle to the plane in which the cam lever moves. The back gage or welt guide is secured upon an arm 18 which is pivoted upon a stud 50 secured in the supporting plate 42, and is connected by a link 52 to a back gage slide of usual construe tion. The linkis connected with the back gageslide'and the arm carrying the back gage 'by ball joints to permit the move mentlof the back gage in the line of feed. The supporting plate 42 is secured to a rod 56'. mounted to slide longitudinally in hearings in the machine frame, and also for ming'the supporting rod on which the feed 'slide20 is mounted. The support a2,

is also guided and retained in proper position by the engagement of the stud 50 with a bearing formed ina bracket 58.' The rod 56 is reciprocated to move the needle and back gage in the line of feed by the cam lever 60, pivoted at 62 and connected to the rod by a pivot stud 64 adjustably secured in a slot in the lever'and engaging a pivot block 66 which fits within atransverse slot formed in a block 68 on the right-handcnd of the rodf I .The advantages secured by so arranging the parts that the path of the needle is at an inclination to the line of feed are indicated in Figs. 4 to 11.. In sewing along the comparatively straight sides of the shoe, the needle-will pass; through the work at an angle to the base of the channel and to the surface of the upper, as indicated in Fig. 4, and when the needle is retracted the thread leading from the last needle hole to the barb of the needle will slant back toward the preceding needle hole, as indicated in Fig. 6. When the stitch is tightened, therefore,'by the final backward stroke of the needle, the loop through which the: standing thread I passes'will be shortened to'a greater extent than .would be the case if the standing thread. were at a right angle to thesurfaee ofj the upper,sincelthe point on the standing thread engaged by the loop will be nearer the previous'needle'hole and since the stand- '65 ing thread Will'offer less resistance to defiection. Consequently a tighter scam will be sewn. In sewing about the toe also the inclination of the needle path to the line of feed results in a tighter seam, since it causes the needle to pass through the work at a better angle and therefore permits a better and more even distribution of the stitches with the same total swinging movement of the shoe. This is indicated by Figs. 7 to 10. In these views, Fig. 7 indicates the position of the shoe after the needle has passed through the work and before the channel guide is back fed. In Fig. 8 the channel guide has back fed and the needle has been retracted. Before the needle again penetrates the work, as indicated in Fig. 9,the shoe must be swung so that the base of the channel at the right of the channel guide will be in position to permit the back feed of the channel guide after the needle has penetrated the work. The position into which the shoe must be swung is indicated in Figs. 9 and 10, Fig. 9 showing the channel guide before it has back fed, and Fig. 10 showing the posi tion of the channel guide after it has back "fed; For the purpose of comparison the position of the needle and standing thread, in case the needle had reciprocated at right angles to the line of feed, assuming that the shoe had been swung into the same position before the needle penetrated the work, is indicatedin dotted lines in Fig. 10. The relative positions of the standing thread shown in dotted and full lines make it apparent that the needle penetrates the work at an angle better adapted to the production of a tight stitch when it oscillates in a path inclined to the line of: feed than when it oscillates in a path at right angles to the line of feed, and that the length of the stitch along the surface of the welt is less with the former arrangement than with the latter, and consequently less turn of the shoe between work penetrating strokes of the needle in order to move the base of the channel out of the path of the channel guide is required as the point of the toe is reached. Fig. 11 indicates graphically the reduction in the turning movement between successive strokes of the needle required in sewing about the point of the toe resulting from the inclination of the needle path to the line of feed. The vertical full linein this view indicates the path of the needle, and the position of the shoe corresponding substantially to the position indicated in Fig. 10 is shown in full lines. The shoe must be turned at least this far, as otherwise the base of the channel will not be clear of the channel guide 10 as the channel guide moves back to its retracted position indicated in dotted lines. The path of movement of the channel guide is in the line of feed, and is indicated by the inclined line. The position of the next preceding needle hole on the welt is indicated at 70. If the path of the needle is at right angles to the feed, the path of the backward travel of the channel guide will be indicated by the horizontal line. In this case, as in the other, the shoe must be turned sufficiently before the needle penetrates the work on the vertical line to remove the base of the channel from the backward path of the channel guide. Since the guide moves along the horizontal line into the dotted line position, the shoe of the channel guide, materially reduced by the inclination of the needle path to the line of feed, but the distribution of the stitches is also better adapted for the sewing of a ti ht seam.

ile the invention has been shown and described as embodied in a machine in which the stitch forming and work guiding devices are actuated to impart a continuous feeding movement to the work during the sewing, it will be understood that it is equally applicable to machines in which the feed of the work is intermittent, as for instance in the patent above referred to. It will also be understood that the specific construction and arran ement of the parts shown and describe is not material to the broader features of the invention, but may be varied or modified as found desirable or best suited to the construction of the machine in which the invention is to be embodied.

Having explained the nature and object of the invention, and specifically described one form of mechanism in which it may be embodied, what is claimed is 1. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming and work guiding devices including a channel guide and a needle mounted to oscillate about an axis slightly inclined to the line of feed.

2. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming and Work guiding devices including a channel guide and a needle, mechanism for reciprocating the channel guide in the line of feed, and mechanism for oscillating the needle in a path inclined to the line of reciprocation of the channel guide.

3. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming and Work guiding devices including a channel guide, and a needle mounted for movement in the direction of the feed and to oscillate about an axis slightly inclined to the line of feed.

4. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming and Work guiding devices including a needle, a channel guide and back gage, mechanism for moving each in the direction of the feed when in active engagement with the work, and mecha nism for oscillating the needle in a path inclined to the line of feed.

5. An inseam sewing machine, having, in combination, stitch forming and work guiding devices including a channel guide and curved hook needle relatively movable in the line of feed, and mechanism for oscillating the needle in a path inclined to the line of feed.

6. An inseam sewing machine having, in combination, chain stitch forming and work guiding devices including a channel guide, a looper, and a curved hook needle mounted to oscillate about an axis inclined to the line of feed.

ALFRED R. MORRILL. 

